Thursday, May 12, 2011

Travelling with Food through Spices and Herbs

Assigned to attend a cooking class by www.cookeatnow.com. Syempre, go!

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Transform a simple chicken breast to something spectacular with flavors from Thailand, India and Morocco

Picture this: A spice rack filled with different spices, a bin with different herbs and a home cook who doesn’t know what to do with any of them. Is this you in your kitchen?

Don’t sweat--we’re all guilty at one point or another. We buy herbs and spices out of curiosity or to follow a new recipe, but once done, we just let the herbs wilt and the spices end up as decorations. The average Filipino home cook is not really adept with using herbs and spices. Afterall, the Filipino dishes only require the usual salt, pepper, and some dried bay leaf. Occasionally, we may come across a spicy variety that requires a little chili, but nothing else.

Stephanie Zubiri, executive chef of The Modern Epicurean Kitchen (MEK), believes we can do better. “The correct use of spices can transform any dish. Spices and herbs allow you to get creative, to change a simple chicken breast to something spectacular.”

TASTE SENSATIONS AS YOUR GUIDE
To begin to understand how to use spices and herbs, we must first understand the taste sensations in our mouths. There are traditionally four taste sensations—sweet, salty, sour and bitter. Recently, a fifth sensation has been proven to exist—umami.

Sweetness this is the most recognizable of all sensations. It brings a wellness to the mouth and satiates hunger.  In contrast, saltiness enhances flavor and whets the appetite—case in point, potato chips. Sourness brightens a dish and cuts fat and oil, and bitterness cleanses the palate and makes us loose our appetite due to its association with things that are unpleasant. Umami is earthy, and mouth filling—malinamnam or savory.  It is present in tomato paste, cheese and mushrooms.

“When mixing our spices, we must strive to find a balance in all these taste sensations,” says Steph, as she is fondly called by her students in her weekly MEK classes. “For example, the classic Filipino adobo is a staple in every home and restaurant because it balance sweetness, saltiness and sourness in one dish.” We must also remember that the basic tastes contribute only partially to the sensation and flavor of food. Other things to consider are aroma, texture and temperature.

TRAVELLING THROUGH SPICES
Different herbs and spices are associated with different continents and cultures. Thailand, India and Morocco are countries with cuisines made distinct by their use of herbs and spices.

 
Photo courtesy of www.adventuresinspice.com

THAILAND
Thai dishes are always created with a perfect balance of hot, sour, sweet and salty. They use the flavors of ginger, lemongrass, chili and cilantro to evoke a harmony of flavors. Try concocting a sauce of curry, coconut and cilantro and serve with grilled fish.

Lemongrass/ Tanglad is an herb commonly used in all Southeast Asian countries. Although sparsely used in Filipino dishes, it is the secret ingredient to the savory Cebu lechon. It is a great in salads and desserts, and complements the flavor of fish very well. The trick is to mince it into tiny pieces, or mix with your marinades in a food processor. It provides a cleansing taste and removes the fishy smell or lansa.

Kaffir Lime is the signature scent of the Thai noodle soup tom yum. To get its full flavor, use the lime zest or break the leaves and pound it. It marries well with lemongrass to flavor seafood and shellfish.

Cilantro (also known as wansoy, coriander leaves, Chinese parsely) is the key spice in Vietnamese Pho. It cuts the fat in any dish and a great substitute for the ever-safe parsley to liven up the flavor.

Mint is not just for desserts. It is a savory herb great with shimp or ampalaya salad with salted eggs. Careful though, always serve it fresh, otherwise it immediately looses its flavor and turns bitter.

Flat Leaf Parsley (Italian) is often used the same way as cilantro, but it comes with a milder taste. It is best used as a garnish in almost all types of dishes.

Galanggal is a root herb similar to ginger, but less potent. It offers flavors of mixed ginger, mint and pepper.  To get its full flavor, pound it to release the juice.

Chili offers two kinds of hotness/spiciness. The strong, and sometimes painful, spice comes from the seeds and the oil. A smoked flavor comes from roasted and ground chilies. Cayenne pepper is the dried labuyo, with bright red colors; and paprika bears the smoky feel of bell peppers. Chili flakes are dried chili seeds.

Chili Powder is actually a combination of different chilies with onion, cumin, oregano, garlic powder and salt. It is a flavoring agent mostly associated with Mexican dishes.

 
Thai tom yum soup
Photo courtesy of www.templeofthai.com

INDIA
Indian Cuisine is characterized by extensive use of herbs, spices and vegetables as influenced by the extensive spice trade between India and Europe. Chili pepper, black mustard seed, cumin, turmeric, ginger, coriander and garlic dominate Indian flavors. Try cooking your fish with masala, cardamom, basil and lemon zest.

Garam Masala is the base of all Indian curry. It is a popular spice mix, which typically involves cardamom, cinnamon and clove. Each region—even each family—has its own heirloom recipe of garam masala.

Cardamom is a member of the ginger family. It is a small seedpod, finely crushed, with flavors similar to lemongrass. It is best paired with scallops, lamb, salmon and shellfish.

Cumin is a spice that links Indian and Moroccan cuisine. It is the spice that give curry its distinct earthy scent and warming feeling.

 
Photo courtesy of www.knoxvillebusiness.com

MOROCCO
Moroccan food is known for savory food characterized by a mixture of all spice, cloves and cinnamon. It is influenced by so many nations and cultures, including Berber, Moorish, Mediterranean, and Arab. Compared to Indian cuisine, Moroccans use a lot of tomatoes and tomato paste to thicken their stews.

Cinamon is the dried bark of laurel trees. It is bitter and sweet at the same time. It marries well with nutmeg, ginger and all spice; and has extensive use in baking, chicken and lamb dishes.

Turmeric is a mild herb great for coloring your dishes with a yellow-mustard shade. It is good with cilantro, dill and mint. Put a dash of turmeric in your rice to make the traditional Batanes yellow rice.

Harissa Paste is a hot chili North African condiment, which combines different kinds of peppers and olive oil. It used with shrimp, as a marinade for meat and as a flavoring for couscous.

Pink Peppercorns are berries from rose bushes in Madagascar.  It has a floral taste and a great garnishing.

 
Moroccan Chicken Stew
Photo courtesy of www.ruralintelligence.com

“Don’t be afraid to try these spices and herbs. The best teacher is home cooking, traveling and tasting,” says Steph. “When cooking or making a menu, strive to convey a message. What memories do you want to invoke, what are you trying to communicate with these dishes? Use the herbs and spices to make your stories exciting and spectacular.”

TRY IT!
Bombay Linguini

Ingredients:
1 package linguini pasta
Olive oil
1 small onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 large zucchini, sliced thinly into half moons
1 tsp turmeric
1 tsp curry
1 tsp masala
1 dash cayenne pepper
2 lemons, zested and juiced
2 tsp pink peppercorns, crushed
½ bunch fresh dill, roughly chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Parmesan cheese, freshly grated (optional)

Method:
  1. Cook pasta to al dents, according to directions on the box.
  2. In the meantime, sauté onions and garlic in olive oil. Add zucchini and sauté in medium to high heat. Cook through but make sure that they are still firm.
  3. Add more olive oil.
  4. Add turmeric, curry, masala and cayenne pepper making sure everything is evenly coated. Season with salt and pepper.
  5. Remove from heat and toss pasta with dill and pink peppercorns, lemon juice and lemon zest.
  6. Add parmesan cheese if desired. Serve.


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Modern Epicurean Kitchen
Cooking Classes with Stephanie Zubiri
www.epicurusinc.ph
317 Lirio St., Palm Village, Makati City
384 7064 or 215 9441

Tuesday MEK Active Demo
March 1 - Mexican Fiesta
March 8 - Spanish Tapas Night
March 15 - French Home Cooking 2   
March 22 - Italian Classics
March 29 - French Home Cooking 3
April 5 - Cheeses, Cheese Platters and Uses
April 12 - Easy Desserts
April 26 - Salads

Gourmet Edition
March 28 - Cooking with Truffle
April 4 - Cooking with Foie Gras

Cooking with Kids and Adults Too!
April 6 - Simple Cooking Techniques
April 1 - Gnocchi
April 27 - Say Cheese Please!
May 4 - Pasta and Pasta Sauces
May 11 - Risotto Balls

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